South West 660: the off-peak road trip in East Devon
Well, fortunately for those visiting the West Country, a ‘road trip’ with a difference has been devised, and it’s all thanks to the dedicated team behind South West 660.
One of the co-founders, Chris Jackson says: ‘We had the idea for South West 660 over a beer! We were having a discussion on how best to showcase this beautiful corner of the UK while helping to support the hospitality sector in the low season. This brilliant new coastal route was the result!’
Originally created as an off-peak road trip, the South West 660 vision was to encourage visitors to the West Country in order to maintain tourism levels over the quieter wintry months. The team has formed relationships with many local restaurants, accommodation providers and tourist attractions all with the main aim of helping to boost tourism when the days are shorter and the leaves have dropped from the trees. But, what they’ve realised is that there are many keen walkers who still wish to explore the South West during the busier spring and summer season, and so, in order to discourage using the already stifled road network, they have introduced an ‘eco-hike road trip’ option which highlights the bonuses of travelling the South West 660 by using public transport during the peak season.
It's a win-win for all involved. The local economy continues to prosper, walkers continue to enjoy the longer days and fairer weather and, most crucially of all, the environment continues to benefit from the lowered carbon emissions.
Eco-hiking an east Devon stretch of South West 660
Never one to shy away from an eco-hike, I was invited by the South West 660 team to test drive the sustainable route, without the erm, test drive. I packed a light rucksack with minimal overnight necessities and started my two-day journey with a beachside stroll in Weymouth. My planned route was to take in a large section of the Jurassic coastline, with options to call in to various coastal towns and village en route. The Dorset leg was very much day one, whereas day two was reserved for the Devon experience.
The mantra of the South West 660 team is to “Experience the journey, discover the destination” and it’s a beneficial reminder to embrace the here and now. With the world moving at such crazily fast speeds, the South West 660 eco-hike will force you to slow down, you will have ample time to soak up the local culture and perhaps spot things which would normally pass you by.
Surprise dining by candlelight
You join me in Branscombe, where I was fortunate enough to be fed and watered overnight at the most hospitable, Mason’s Arms. The freak storm which caused the power cut didn’t seem to faze the team, and all diners were still served up fabulous meals despite being cooked by candlelight. The next morning, chef loaded me up with a hearty breakfast so I was ready for the day ahead, and as I strolled past the thatched cottages, National Trust iron forgery and old bakery I was thankful that the bus was running late so I had plenty time for extra photographs.
Regency history
As you head towards Sidmouth on the bus, it's worth remembering that you can ring the bell and alight just outside the Donkey Sanctuary. Celebrated for rescuing donkeys in need, the charity’s activities have expanded over the years, and it now provides donkey welfare education in the UK and abroad, as well running successful donkey-assisted therapy sessions for children and adults with additional needs.
From here you can pick up the South West Coast Path and be in Sidmouth within an hour or so. Noted as being Queen Victoria’s favoured spot to take in the sea air, Sidmouth has a lot to offer with a thriving town of independent shops and eateries. The highlight for me, has to be a stroll past Chit Rocks and Jacob’s Ladder. The red, wind-battered ‘caves’ are one of nature’s marvels and it’s fascinating to walk up close and examine the many layers which make up this stunning section of Devonshire shoreline.
Nature trail
The seven-mile stretch towards Budleigh Salterton will not disappoint, and it will be a particular highlight for nature lovers. Ladram Bay is a hot spot for sightings of bottlenose dolphins as well as cormorants who regularly nest on the cliffs, proudly standing with their wings outstretched to dry. It’s also good to know that you can watch the birds from the sea here by joining one of the Stuart Line Cruises which sail along this coastal section. The on-board ornithologist provides seasonal commentary about this Jurassic habitat during their regular sailings.
You’re there, but not quite
Back to our eco-hike and the footpath towards Budleigh Salterton is a bit of a tease. The River Otter is meeting the Channel and in doing so, the coast path has to divert inland so that you can cross the waterway and head back to the beach. Kingfisher, curlew, redshank and lapwing are regulars along the grazing marshland and the Lower Ottery Estuary. Along with the cliffs at Otterton Point this whole area is designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) so nature lovers will be keen to see the huge restoration project taking place as humankind works with Mother Nature in the battle against rising sea levels.
Time to eat – again!
One of my most favourite things whilst out hiking is the feeling of taking off my rucksack and sitting down to some top nosh. When you’ve walked a long way, you certainly deserve some good food to replenish your energy levels and I must insist that you head to The Longboat Cafe in Budleigh Salterton. For the ultimate combo, you can order the bacon and scallop roll, and knowing that the seafood on the menu is all caught within a five-mile radius just adds to the ‘Devonish’ delight of it all.
With all this eating, it must be time for a drink, and of course, the other perk of using public transport is that you can enjoy an alcoholic beverage or two along the way. After a short bus ride to Exmouth, I’d recommend a cocktail at Mickey’s Beach which is part of the new Sideshore Development. Owned by Michael Caines MBE, the bar offers a relaxed beach vibe which works in fusion with his Michelin-starred offerings up the road at the very luxurious Lympstone Manor.
The River Exe by rail
It’s not often you feel that you should pay more for a train ticket, but the rail service which runs between Exmouth and Topsham is a golden opportunity to max out on riverbank views – it almost feels like a tourist attraction in itself. The train tracks run incredibly close to the water’s edge giving you front row seats to observe estuary life before hopping off the train to explore the old alleyways, independent shops and antique centre which await you in Topsham. The topography and climatic conditions in this part of east Devon are well suited to grape growing, if you wish to celebrate your eco-hike you can enjoy local wines by Pebblebed Vineyard which is situated just outside the town.
Crossing borders
The beauty of this eco-hike is that there are quite simply no limitations. I really enjoyed planning my hike along the South West Coast Path, checking the bus or train times and then factoring in what to see along the way - you take things as leisurely as you like. It’s also worth knowing that you can become a member of the South West 660 for just £15 a year, which gives you discounts in many eateries and hotels along the way.
Co-founder, Mark Godfrey says: ‘The South West is a treasure trove of fabulous finds. Obviously the first find is the amazing coast, then after that, there are amazing places to stay, eat and drink, all whilst enjoying those sea views. We have it all!’
southwest660.com
References
- ^ Explore Dorset’s Jurassic Coast via the South West 660 route (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)
- ^ Hotel review: Masons Arms, Branscombe, East Devon (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)
- ^ 11 super things to do in Sidmouth (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)
- ^ Why you should visit Budleigh Salterton in East Devon (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)
- ^ Celebrity chef Michael Caines MBE on his love of Devon (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)
- ^ 5 reasons to visit the town of Topsham in Devon (www.greatbritishlife.co.uk)